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He also, more pointedly, re-writes urban noir of the Chandler type but with a focus on what happens when you give it a race overlay

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"In actuality, there were plenty of black dresses before that date, including many by Chanel herself, and black was already a fashionable colour but there's something about this moment and the way it embodies the modernising spirit of the 1920s." That moment is how the new show begins the largest fashion exhibition the National Museum of Scotland has ever staged - a simple crepe de chine dress made by Chanel in 1926, borrowed from the Kunstgewerbemuseum in Berlin